Pate Brisee, is a form of shortcrust pastry crust which is used in french pastry namely tarts. It should be noted that brisee is much softer than American Pie crust and can be a bit more difficult to handle. I had my own difficulty with the crust and for full disclosure I did have to spend some time patching and fixing the crust. While I do think the Brisee works for the dish I would definitely recommend that for a no-fuss version of this pie to replace it with your favorite spice crust recipe, (pie dough + cinnamon sugar), The ratio I use is based off of a recipe I received during my time at the Oregon Coast Culinary Institute which in turn was adapted from the book Desserts by Pierre Herme.
Gelee sounds, (Like most French Terms), horrifying difficult it is however very easy. In essence its just fruit puree with gelatin added to stabilized it. Apples are fairly easy to process so there are a few steps such as straining that where unnecessary. For a more no fuss creation consider simple using pre-made apple sauce for the puree. Also for a great recipe that explains the process and culinary uses I suggest this article by Sheila the Pastry Chef.
I first created my recipe for Nagado Cream by accident during the third quarter of my schooling during the time we were doing weekly cooking challenges known as "Market Baskets" (basically chopped), which tested are menu planning and time management skills. One of are ingredients was poblano peppers so I busted my ass to make a mexican inspired chocolate cake, I had originally planned to make a traditional Nogada Sauce used in the traditional Chiles en Nogada as a sauce for a poblano spiced cake however I had used heavy cream instead of the Mexican Sour Cream, (which is equivalent to Creme Fraiche), making a absolutely delicious chantilly cream but not nogada sauce. Whipped Cream tends to melt so I've included gelatin in the recipe to stabilize it at room temp.
As mentioned in my last article this is part of a series of pies I planned to do for this years County Fair. For Navigation they are:
Pie Lineup
01: Apple | Icebox Nogada Apple Pie (Apple Gelee, Nogada Cream, Pate Brisee Crust)
02: Berry | Marionberry Pie with Lemon Zest Crust
03: Cherry | Double Chocolate Cherry Pie
04: Peach | Peaches and Cream Pie (Hoosier Sugar Cream Variant)
05: Other | Bacon Bourbon Pecan Pie
Ingredients
Crust
- 1 1/4 Sticks Unsalted Butter
- 1 Cup Shortening
- 3 Oz Whole Milk, Room Temp
- 1 Large Egg Yolk
- 1 T Sugar
- 1 t Salt
- Pinch Cinnamon
- 4 C 1 T of All Purpose Flour
Gelee
- 1 # Fruit or 1 1/2 C Fruit Puree(think applesauce)
- 1/3 C Sugar
- 2 T Lemon Juice
- 1/2 t Salt
- 2 T Gelatin Powder
- 1/4 C Water
- Dash Cinnamon
- Dash Nutmeg
Nogado Cream
- 1 1/4 C Heavy Whipping Cream
- 1/2 C Walnuts
- 1/2 t Cinnamon
- 1 T Brown Sugar
- 4 T Water
- 2 T Gelatin Powder
Instructions
Step 1: The Crust
To make the brisee began by creaming the butter and shortening by itself until whipped. Note: Shortening tends to make the dough more elastic while butter tends to be more flavorful. I use a combination to reap the benefits of both but feel free to mix and match to suit your taste. Once you have whipped the butter add the milk, egg, and dry ingredients except the flour and mix again till it comes together. The mixture will look a bit strange but do not overmix. Add the Flour a cup at a time until incorporated. The Dough will be quite soft but will be able to be formed into a ball. Cover and allow to rest for a least four hours or preferably overnight.
Step 2: The Gelee
If you are using Applesauce precede to the next step but if not peel and core your pound of apples. I used a combination of 2 parts Granny Smith and 1 Part Golden Delicious. Add your apples to a pot with the sugar, lemon juice, (this is to prevent browning and add a little bit of acid), salt, and spices and place on medium heat. While your apples are simmering, bloom the gelatin in the water. Continue cooking down the apples, I used a potato masher to break them done into the puree.Now you can Blend and strain the puree for a silky smooth puree but I went for a bit easier of a method and simply added the gelatin to the puree at this point. Once you have finished mixing the gelatin pour into a prepared mold. You will want a mold that will fit the bottom of the pie crust, I used a springform pan but any similar sized cake pan will do the trick. make sure to grease and line the mold as best as you can with cling wrap for easy removal. Place the gelee in the freezer to set.
Step 3: Baking
Take out half the dough at a time as the dough needs to be chilled as it softens quite a bit. Roll the dough quickly using a liberal amount of flour. Roll out 1 crust to the size of the pan and lift into the pan, The brisee can be very fragile so don't be afraid to patch the crust or lift by pieces if it falls apart The brisee is much more forgiving then your regular pie crust. Use a fork and prick the bottom crust. Take the other half and roll out for a top crust, Transfer the crust to a baking sheet. On the top crust push away from the center and crimp the edge. Take a paring Knife and excess a pattern into the top crust. I did the initials for my Blog (aRjays Diner) but feel free to put any design. Remember the crust can be fragile so the more negative space in your design the easier it will be to transfer it the crust breaks.
Bake the crust in a 350F/177C degree oven for 18-20 minutes or until golden brown. Allow the crust to cool before assembly.
Step 3: The Nogado Cream
You should make the cream just before you are ready to assembly the pie. Bloom the gelatin and place aside. Either in a food processor or by hand chop the walnuts finely and place in a medium sized bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients including the gelatin and whip into stiff peaks. Place aside.
Step 4: Assembly
Take out the gelee about an hour before you plan to assemble the pie using a knife release the gelee from the sides and break the gelee from the mold. Place the gelee into the bottom of the pie crust. Take the Nogado Cream and spread out over the top of the gelee. Place the top crust on top of the whipped cream using the cream to seal the top and bottom crusts. Place the pie in the freezer once more to set the whipped cream.
Step 5: Enjoy!
Remove the pie from the freezer about a hour before you wish to serve the pie. Once the Pie has been thawed cut and serve. As the pie is served cold I wouldn't necessarily serve it with ice cream but I could imaging a Cinnamon Chip or similar flavor would pair well.
I hope you enjoyed this unique take on apple pie and please let me know how you enjoyed it. Was there anything you did differently? Also let me know about any recipes or ideas you would like to see me make.
Anyway guys. Happy Baking!
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